The 2016 Challenge, day 9: Right Up Yer Tilt! (9)

When I reached the wide, open expanse of turf at the bealach between the Allt Garbh Buidhe and the Allt an t-Seilich, there was a tent already pitched there. I walked across to see who it was, and it turned out to be Jean Turner! She invited me to stop and chat a while, we shared some whisky from my flask, and I told her of my fortunes this crossing.

There was then a decision to be made ... press on, or wait until the morning. It was an idyllic place to camp, and Jean is excellent company. If there was somebody waiting at Bynack Lodge for a fording companion to help them across the Geldie, then they'd still be there in the morning if nobody else came to their rescue first. Jean wasn't intending to go down until the morning, and fording as a group of 3 would certainly be the safest for all concerned. So ... that was it ... decision taken. I would camp here for the night with Jean, and head down to the Geldie in the morning, picking up anyone who wanted to ford the Geldie with us along the way!

The 2016 Challenge, day 9: Right Up Yer Tilt! (8)

The Falls of Tarf were well stocked with water, and looking absolutely magnificent!!

A short way beyond the falls I encountered a group of mountain bikers, who turned out to be instructors from Glenmore Lodge. I asked if they had forded the Geldie today, and they said that they had - at about 5 o'clock. They said that it had been only marginally viable with their bikes, but that they HAD made it across. They said it was "doable with care", but that it would be wet. I smiled and said "Most river crossings are!" to which they replied "You are very observant."

I pressed on, and at about 6.30 I took a further breather. I took my socks off and had a supper of sorts, of packed lunch bits and pieces, then changed into a fresh pair of socks and carried on. I met two other walkers, who mentioned a lady camped at Bynack Lodge who was hoping for some company to attempt the crossing of the Geldie with her. I figured that if I was going to give it a try this evening it would be as well to have a companion, and I wondered if it was another Challenger. In all probability it was ... but who??

The 2016 Challenge, day 9: Right Up Yer Tilt! (7)

Glen Tilt was as beautiful as ever. I took many, many photographs as I trudged up that wonderful geological fault line, but we all know what Glen Tilt looks like now so I shall only trouble you with the one.

The 2016 Challenge, day 9: Right Up Yer Tilt! (6)

As I passed the bridge I had used to cross the Tilt the first time I had come this way, I did some quick timing computations. I reckoned that I should be at the Falls of Tarf by 6, and if I pressed on then I should be passing Bynack Lodge between 8 and 8.30. This would give me an option of attempting an evening crossing of the Geldie and camping as soon as I was across if it was viable; or camping on the near side and waiting to see if it had subsided any in the morning if I didn't like the look of the evening crossing. It would mean back-tracking a bit if it was still unfordable in the morning, but that seemed OK to me.

The 2016 Challenge, day 9: Right Up Yer Tilt! (5)

The river level may have been falling, as the canoeists had said; but it was still roaring like nothing I had ever heard, and presented as the angriest, most seething mass of white water I had ever seen whenever it encountered any rocks. This was not a river to be trifled with ... and if the Geldie Burn was anything like the Tilt, then it was not going to be a river to be crossed, either!

The 2016 Challenge, day 9: Right Up Yer Tilt! (4)

While I was still in the woods I encountered another walker - Anna - who was concerned by the sound of rifle fire. Were we safe on this path? I assured her that we were, and we walked on together for a while. As we neared the edge of the woods, however, she decided it was time for her to turn back.

Shortly afterwards I encountered a group of canoeists, returning back down the path with their craft. I took the opportunity to obtain an informed opinion on the state of the river, and they assured me that the river level was now falling. This was reassuring, to say the least.

As I pressed on up the Tilt, it was one of those days when it was too hot to walk in waterproofs if it wasn't raining, but whenever I stopped to take them off, the rain started falling not five minutes later, and I had to put them back on again. Nevertheless, the track up the Tilt is a good one, and I made steady progress.

The 2016 Challenge, day 9: Right Up Yer Tilt! (3)

I rejoined the road at the end of the track through the woods, then crossed the Old Bridge of Tilt. I turned right onto the track through the woods, and before long I caught up with a group  of German walkers who were somewhat agitated because of signs warning that the path ahead was closed due to shooting at the rifle range. I spoke with their leader and pointed out to them which of the paths on their map would be OK and which not, and then I pressed on up the glen.

The 2016 Challenge, day 9: Right Up Yer Tilt! (2)

It was raining in Blair. I used the public toilets, and thought how nice it would be to have some chips before I hit the road, to warm me through. I ended up havin ga falafel burger, chips and salad, washed down by Irn Bru, and didn't actually hit the road until about noon. I crossed the Tilt and took the path through the woods on the left bank. The river was in spate, and I began to have my doubts about whether I should be able to cross the Geldie.

The 2016 Challenge, day 9: Right Up Yer Tilt! (1)

Yes, I KNOW I've called a day "Right up Yer Tilt!" once before on this blog - but get over it! It's the same route up the same glen, so what do you expect?? Get over it!

I slept through the night with NO DREAMS. It was the first night since the glissade that I had ... so my head and emotions were clearly starting to sort themselves out at last. I was grateful for that.

I was in no hurry to get away. The first train back to Blair wasn't until 10.53,  so I took the time to sort out my kit, throw out any rubbish, abandon any surplus food, and give the coins that I didn't want to carry all the way to the East coast with me into Ron's care for safekeeping. Then I had a breakfast of bacon and tomatoes, and headed up to the station.

As I sat in the train I texted Challenge control to say that I was resuming walking, and what my plans were if the Geldie Burn proved unfordable. This was looking quite likely, as the Drumochter burns all looked pretty full of water as the train sped past them. In Blair Atholl, too, it looked as though there was a lot of water about. Even the little footbridge outside the old post office was practically awash, and I have never seen that before!!

The 2016 Challenge, day 8: All the Way to Blair (9)

I hurried back to the station just in time for my train, only to find that I had misread the timetable and it didn't stop in Dalwhinnie! I could wait two and a half hours for a train that did; or I could catch this one, get off at Aviemore, and kill two and a half hours there instead.

The choice was pretty obvious - I caught the train to Aviemore, where I was able to take this photo of snow on the Cairngorms from the station footbridge.

After cooling my heels in Aviemore (it was pleasant enough, with plenty of bright sunshine) I caught my train to Dalwhinnie and was at the bunkhouse by 8. The restaurant had closed at 7, however, so I cooked myself supper from my surplus supplied, and then went and had a word with Ron about the small matter of a kilo of old metal which I really didn't want to be lugging across Scotland with me the rest of the way. Ron was happy to look after my coins fro me until I could come back to collect them, so all was well and I turned in to sleep a happy man!

The 2016 Challenge, day 8: All the Way to Blair (8)

I arrived in Blair just in time to see the train for Perth departing. The next train was an Inverness train, and I had a little over an hour to kill before it arrived, so I went off in search of a map to cover the top end of Glen Tilt (which wasn't shown on the maps I had brought with me, as I hadn't been planning on going there; but now I was going there, even though I thought I probably knew the way by heart, I thought it best to have a map). Well, what do you know? The convenience store didn't have a local map; and nor did the shop at the castle camp site. So I headed back to the station and caught my train to Inverness.

In Inverness I was able to buy a new watch strap, surgical tape, a new camera pouch, the map I needed, some storm matches, and various energy gels and other such essential supplies. Having bought all of these I headed out of Blacks leaving my walking poles behind. Half way to the station I realized I was missing something and hurried back to collect them. The shop assistant handed them back to me, laughing, and told me I was lucky they hadn't put a price on them!

The 2016 Challenge, day 8: All the Way to Blair (7)

The woodland was nice and open and easy enough to walk through; and after a hundred metres or so I found a place to cross back over the wall and continue on my way and into Blair, using the footbridge which isn't shown on the maps.

The 2016 Challenge, day 8: All the Way to Blair (6)

Until I came to THIS!!!

The sign on the left warns that the roadway has been seriously undercut, and could collapse at any moment. I did not, therefore, think it very wise to attempt to pass along it, upon the assumption that the road closure did not apply to me.

There was, however, a stretch of woodland on the left, just the other side of a low stone wall with barbed wire strands on top; and this presumably was not undercut. So I hopped over the wall and continued on my way.

The 2016 Challenge, day 8: All the Way to Blair (5)

Beyond the flyover, the road seemed perfectly open and was delightful to walk ...

The 2016 Challenge, day 8: All the Way to Blair (4)

As I approached the flyover, I was greeted by a singularly ambivalent scene. The sign said "Road Closed", but the gate was wide open and inviting. Which was telling the truth?

I decided that the "Road Closed" sign probably didn't apply to me ... it probably only applied to motor traffic ... so I carried on, undaunted, under the main road and along beside the river.

The 2016 Challenge, day 8: All the Way to Blair (3)

Across the bridge the road turns right, and follows the river upstream (and more or less due West, at that!). The river Garry here is, once again, a placid stream chattering merrily over the shingle and boulders; but the width of the bed speaks of a prodigious capacity for carrying water when in spate. High above, the A9 flew over on its flyover ...

The 2016 Challenge, day 8: All the Way to Blair (2)

The view downstream from the bridge, with Ben Vrackie in the background, offered a little white water as the river Garry entered the narrow gorge below the pass of Killiecrankie. Somewhere along that gorge is the Soldier's Leap, where a government soldier fleeing the wrathful highlanders after the battle of Killiecrankie in 1689 is supposed to have leaped across the river in a single bound. It must have been a considerable feat of athleticism ... but then again, if you have Bonny Dundee's highlanders hot on your tail, and you don't like it up you, then I imagine the incentive to produce a good jump is quite considerable!

The 2016 Challenge, day 8: All the Way to Blair (1)

After a good night's sleep I had a breakfast of fruit juice, grapefruit and two kippers, and then returned to my room to prepare for a short day's walking. Having finished my necessary preparations, however, I went to unbolt the toilet door ... and the bolt head sheared and came off in my hand, leaving the toilet door resolutely locked!

I remembered how, as a child, I had irritated my older brother by singing "Oh dear! What can the matter be? Simon's got locked in the lavatory! He's been there from Friday to Saturday - nobody knows he's there". Well, I was sure that my incarceration wouldn't last quite that long, as somebody was BOUND to be in to open the curtains and check on the towels sooner than that. But all the same, I'd sooner effect my own escape. Which I did manage to do ... with a little ingenuity.

I compeeded my feet, but it still felt as if I was walking on marbles, so I was very glad that I should only be doing a short day's walking today. I settled my account with the hotel, and took the old bridge across the Garry which serves the road on the South side of the river. Nowadays that road's principal purpose is carrying commercial traffic to and from the quarry at Creag Odhar. There wasn't all that much of this, so the road was very quiet and pleasant walking.

The 2016 Challenge, day 7: Came Ye by Killiecrankie - oh? (15)

I couldn't help but be amused by this sign on the gate into the Killiecrankie Hotel's garden, which was visible from the dining room.

Now, where was I? Ah yes ... the dining room ... and supper. Well, what can I say about supper at the Killiecrankie Hotel, other than that it was MAGNIFICENT!! Having been warned in advance of my dietary requirements, the chef had actually gone out of his way to prepare a special bespoke table d'hote menu JUST FOR ME!!! I was presented with a choice of 4 starters, 3 main courses and two desserts, all of which had been carefully thought out and prepared with ingredients that I could eat. Wow! So THIS was what it felt like to be an ordinary person, was it?? I had completely forgotten that!!

So I chose warm wild mushroom salad with wood pigeon strips; breast of Gressingham duck; and a coconut milk panna cotta with mango and lime salad. And the wonderful waiter, Callum, assisted me with a suitable wine choice (and when the waiter recommends one of the CHEAPEST wines on the menu as being best suited to your choices, you know he is making a sound recommendation!

I returned to my room after dinner, to find that somebody had been in while I was dining to close the curtains for me and replace my towels. I'd have re-used those towels, honest ... I just hadn't been expecting anyone to look into my room while I was at diner, so I hadn't put them where the hotel staff would have known I was happy for them not to be laundered.

All in all ... this was a hotel that impressed!

The 2016 Challenge, day 7: Came Ye by Killiecrankie - oh? (14)

I arrived at the Killiecrankie Hotel at 5.30, and was shown to my room. It had a shower, but no bath. I asked if they had a room with a bath - which they did, and they were happy to switch me to that room - so I was able to take a long and luxurious bath, and think about my options from here.

I was a day behind, but my planned route included an essentially circular day of Munro Bagging which ended up at the Cocktail Party. My FWA for that day involved sitting in my tent waiting for the party to arrive. So, obviously, I could get back to my planned schedule by pushing on up to the cocktail party without the circular day of Munro bagging. But my feet were sore and I was feeling pretty low, and I simply didn't like the idea of this. I still needed to take it easy for a bit. I didn't feel ready to go solo in wild country again, and I still had some kit replacements that I needed to obtain. And so an idea formed in my mind. Tomorrow, I would simply walk as far as Blair, and then jump on a train to either Inverness or Perth (whichever came first ... I'm not fussy!) to sort out my resupply. I would then return, not to Blair, but to Dalwhinnie to spend a night in the bunkhouse. The following morning I would take a train back to Blair and head up Glen Tilt, reaching Braemar in two days, which would put me back on schedule. Hopefully, by then, I'd be feeling ready to venture into truly wild country again.

I got out of my bath and rang Ron and Marilyn to book a room, then Braemar Youth Hostel to change my booking. Finally I rang Challenge Control to tell them of my revised plans. Then I went down to see what the hotel had to offer by way of supper.