The 2013 Challenge: epilogue (3)

I returned South on the Saturday, catching the 10.32 from Montrose. This is a popular train with Challengers; but as in previous years, I had treated myself to a first class ticket so I was in a different carriage from most of them. As the beautiful Challenge country slipped away, and as we found ourselves back in England once more, I reflected on my eighth Challenge with mixed emotions. For a variety of reasons I had spent far more time than I wanted on the roads; and the weather had kept me low for most of the crossing. I had only "gone high" twice, and topped out on just two Munros. But ... what spectacular days they had been! Plus, at the end of day two, I had seriously thought that I would be withdrawing this year due to medical problems. But my symptoms had resolved themselves and I had been able to carry on - and that, in itself, was something to be pleased about. And then, there was the first day in the Rough Bounds. What HAD gone wrong with my foul-weather navigation that day??? That question was bugging me, and it continued to bug me the whole way back. DEFINITELY some unfinished business there!

The 2013 Challenge: epilogue (2)

On the Friday morning, after a wonderful breakfast, I wandered into the centre of Arbroath and poked around the harbour for a bit. I went to see the lighthouse museum, which is not in an actual lighthouse, but in the shore station for the offshore Bell Rock lighthouse. You can see it in the photograph: the white building in the background. Then at about noon, I wandered up to the station and caught a train to Montrose, where I strolled along to the Park and signed in. I had a room booked so I went and made myself comfortable, had a bath and changed into my new T-shirt. Then I strolled back to Challenge Control to chat with folks ... and this is where being a Friday finisher pays dividends. They had quite a lot of withdrawals, and they had quite a lot of surplus Challenge T-shirts. And this year's T-shirt is a very fine walking base layer. So, as they were trying to get rid of them, I came away with more than just the one!

The 2013 Challenge: epilogue (1)

Although I had finished on the Thursday, I made no attempt to make it to Montrose for the Thursday evening dinner. These days I tend to prefer the intimacy of the Friday dinner ... and the other fringe benefits that come with being a Friday finisher! So I had booked into a B&B in Arbroath (pictured). It was called Brucefield, and it described itself as a "boutique B&B" ... whatever that means! All I know is it was expensive - and worth every penny! They didn't offer evening meals, however; and I cannot now remember what I did for an evening meal. But no matter! I do know that I had a very pleasant night there, and a very fine breakfast in the morning.

The 2013 Challenge, day 14: Forfar to Whiting Ness (14)

Finally, after 14 days' walking, I arrived at the craggy red sandstone cliffs that are Whiting Ness. The tide was out, so I walked carefully out across the seaweed coated rocks until I reached a place where the breaking waves just lapped up against my boots. Then, as I had done 14 days ago at the little bay to the South of Morar, I leaned forward and ceremonially dipped a walking pole into the sea; and that was my Challenge finished.

I made my way back across the rocks and texted Challenge Control to tell them that I had finished at Whiting Ness as planned; and then I made my way to the Bed & Breakfast I had booked, which was not very far distant. I had no plans to try to get to Montrose today: that could wait until the morning.

The 2013 Challenge, day 14: Forfar to Whiting Ness (13)

I turned right just before I reached Cliffburn, and now I was within a kilometre of my finish point. I could see the sea ahead of me and, passing under the old railway bridge (pictured), I was nearly there.

The 2013 Challenge, day 14: Forfar to Whiting Ness (12)

Having passed across the Northern fringe of Arbroath, my route now brought me into its Western outskirts. However, Arbroath was not my finishing point, and I turned for Cliffburn instead.

The 2013 Challenge, day 14: Forfar to Whiting Ness (11)

At St Vigeans there is a kirk on a hill (pictured), and a museum. The museum holds an important collection of ancient Pictish stones or carvings or something; but it is only open by prior appointment. As I had been unable to predict what time I was likely to arrive, I had not made an appointment. So I left them for inspection on another occasion. Instead I followed the back road through Warddykes to the main A92, and then the back road up the hill to Bearfaulds where I turned right.

The 2013 Challenge, day 14: Forfar to Whiting Ness (10)

From Colliston I followed the road to Letham Grange, where I turned onto the path which uses the old railway track bed and followed this for the three and a half kilometres to St Vigeans. This really is an amazingly beautiful route, and I would strongly recommend to any Challenger contemplating an Arbroath finish to make their final approach to the town along this path if they can possibly contrive to do so. Along this path I also, finally, I began to encounter other people in appreciable numbers. Apart from here, and the few towns I had passed through, I had met surprisingly few other people. All in all, this had been a remarkably solitary crossing, even by my standards.

The 2013 Challenge, day 14: Forfar to Whiting Ness (9)

The road carried me over Idvies Hill and past Dumbarrow, where the map shows a windmill. I'm guessing that this is it (pictured).

I carried on past Dumbarrow, and across the B961 just South of Cononsyth; and then I was supposed to turn off onto the track to Parkconon. However, as I strode along I wasn't really paying much attention and I managed to miss the turning altogether. By the time I realised what I had done, I decided that I may just as well carry on to Grange of Conon as turn back; and so I followed the tracks from Grange of Conon to Colliston. As I walked these tracks it came on to rain again, so I was back into my waterproofs once more; but I was able to take them off again when I got to Colliston.

The 2013 Challenge, day 14: Forfar to Whiting Ness (8)

The road out of Letham crosses the southern tribuntary of the Lunan Water (which joins the main stream at Friockheim) on this rather beautiful old stone bridge. Of much greater interest to me as a Challenger, though, is that by this bridge there is a wonderful grassy picnic area, which will certainly serve as a final night pitch on some future Challenge.

The 2013 Challenge, day 14: Forfar to Whiting Ness (7)

I took a close look (and a close-up photograph) to get an idea of what these cup and ring markings actually are, and then I carried on into Letham. As you enter Letham from the North there is, on the left, a fascinating crafts shop and cafe; and stopping here I enjoyed a very nice bowl of chicken and mushroom soup before continuing on through the town.

The 2013 Challenge, day 14: Forfar to Whiting Ness (7)

On the right of the road into Letham there is this rather interesting feature, which turns out on closer investigation to be a cup and ring marked stone. Now normally, when one of these is marked on the map, I am completely unable to find it on the ground. On this occasion, however, there is no difficulty about finding it on the ground; but there is absolutely nothing on the map to indicate that it is there!

The 2013 Challenge, day 14: Forfar to Whiting Ness (6)

... and a further barbed wire fence crossing was necessary in order to reach the path down off the other side of the hill. With my shoulder still giving me trouble, this was far from straightforward; but I eventually got across and followed the path to Finnieston.

At Finnieston I turned right and followed the road down the hill to the junction where I turned left; and then right again onto the road into Letham.

The 2013 Challenge, day 14: Forfar to Whiting Ness (5)

... but after a while, it just peters out into an open grassy area in the middle of the woods on the hilltop ...

The 2013 Challenge, day 14: Forfar to Whiting Ness (4)

The track up Dunnichen Hill started out being clearly defined and easy to follow ...

The 2013 Challenge, day 14: Forfar to Whiting Ness (3)

My planned route after Burnside was to follow the path over Dunnichen Hill to Finnieston ... but I got the distinct impression that somebody wasn't too keen on me (or anyone else, for that matter) following that particular path. However, the sign did not look particlarly recent, and I felt confident that I should probably be safe passing this way. So I ignored the sign and followed the track anyway.

The 2013 Challenge, day 14: Forfar to Whiting Ness (2)

The use of these paths and tracks in my route had been specifically commented upon by my route vetters, who said they liked the fact that once I was out of the Angus Glens I had not simply opted to follow the roads all the way to the coast, but had tried to find opportunities to get off the roads wherever possible. What neither they nor I had appreciated, however, was that there was a large quarry to the immediate north of this track (pictured); and with a stiff Northerly breeze blowing that morning, I soon had sand blowing in my face and stinging my eyes.

I was soon past the quarry, however, and at the bridge under the old railway line. This was protected by a gate, beyond which was a large herd of cattle. My grandfather was a dairy farmer and I am not too troubled by kine, so I pressed on until I reached the road; and I followed the road past Mid Dod to Burnside.

The 2013 Challenge, day 14: Forfar to Whiting Ness (1)

Thursday 23 May 2013 was the final day of my eighth TGO Challenge. I left Forfar on the B9128 towards Kingsmuir; but at Welron I turned left onto the pleasant green track which leads towards Auchterforfar (pictured).

The 2013 Challenge, day 13: Cortachy to Forfar (7)

I left the square by means of a little back street and archway (pictured) which returned me to the main street, and here I found a traditional barber's shop which offered hot towel wet shaves. This seemed like just the kind of pampering I needed after walking nearly across Scotland, so I booked one for myself and went for another little wander while they prepared the towels.

Now a proper hot towel wet shave takes a long time - over an hour in this case - and they only charged me £10 for it! I don't quite see how this can be profitable. Even assuming that the girl who shaved me is earning bare National Minimum Wage, that doesn't leave a whole lot over to pay for premises and overheads and leave the proprietor with a little bit for themselves. However, it was their price and I was happy to pay it - together with a £5 tip because she did such a wonderful job. To put this in context, soon after I returned from the Challenge, the London Evening Standard did a little feature on a London barber who was offering his customers traditional hot towel shaves ... at £45 a time! OK, so just about everything in London is dearer than in Scotland; but not usually by 350%!

Once I had been shaved, I returned to the camp site and found another Challenger pitching his tent. When he was done we went off together in search of some supper; and over supper he told me about his achievements this crossing. It seems that on most of the days when I had decided the weather wasn't suitable for going high, he decided otherwise; and had ascended 8 Corbetts and 38 Munros on the way across. That's more Munros in two weeks than I've done in my entire life!!!

The 2013 Challenge, day 13: Cortachy to Forfar (6)

At first sight, Forfar can seem a wee bit unprepossessing. However, delve a little deeper and there are some well-hidden gems, such as this little square, which has a very French feel to it.